Sound like an oxymoron? Myra Kornfeld
argues that choosing to be a vegan does not mean you have to deprive
yourself--rather, you can pamper your palate with luscious, healthy
food. There are those who advocate salt-free, fat-free, flavor-free
food, but Kornfeld sets the record straight right from the beginning.
She uses salt for seasoning, and reminds us, thank goodness, that you
need fat in a healthy diet. Clear instructions, a chapter on
ingredients (including sections on grains, greens, and beans--how to
buy them, cook them, and use them), and a short primer on equipment
make this a good book for beginners. More accomplished cooks will
appreciate Kornfeld's innovation. She isn't afraid to use herbs and
spices, and she knows the capabilities of her ingredients. In a simple
Rich Stock recipe, for instance, she calls for celery root, and
explains in a note that you can substitute celery, but that the root
gives a much deeper flavor. Kornfeld's food is voluptuous in
presentation, too: Smoky Chestnut and Sweet Potato Soup calls for a
dash of rum, and it's served with toasted, chopped hazelnuts and a
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg; Hominy, Tomatillo, and Squash Stew is
topped with Ginger and Lime Cream made from tofu; and a Fennel, Orange,
and Pomegranate Salad is so beautiful and the flavor so complex, you'll
swear you're eating four-star cuisine.
